Scotland!
The next adventure came only two days after arriving home from Cork. Some friends from Tennessee were in Scotland, and because of their tight schedule (they were also meeting other friends), as well as being unable to take a rental car from the UK to Ireland (and their enormous amount of luggage), we decided to visit with them in the Scottish Highlands rather than miss the chance of seeing them. So we flew to Prestwick and took the train to Aviemore.
The train and buses are a great way to travel, because they not only have great, clean, public transport, but you can watch the scenery without stress! We saw lots of wildlife, including the red deer, and domestic stock as well, including the famous Highland cattle. Here is a picture of the latter, taken by a Mr. Peter Stubbs of EdinPhoto (where you can see and purchase his great photography!), who kindly allowed us to reproduce it here.
Friendly local Highland cattle, photo by Mr. Peter Stubbs of EdinPhoto
We stayed at a picturesque B & B in Aviemore, in the scenic Cairngorms, near where our friends were staying, and we shared two evenings of good conversation with them and the friends they were traveling with, Bob and Linda.
Our friend Donnie Shearer is a piper, as is his friend, Bob, who was his first teacher. They and Seamus entertained us with some pipe tunes on the electronic bagpipes, while Gail and her friend Linda prepared a lovely dessert each night for us.
Donnie is also a talented swordsmith, photographer and artist. He repairs antiques and makes reproductions of Scottish swords and firearms. His work can be seen on his website: "The Mad Piper".
Donnie Shearer at Ruthven Barracks, scene of one of the battles of the 1745 Rising.
Lisa, Donnie, Gail, Bob and Linda
Seamus and I had dinner at the Cairngorm Hotel, next door to our B&B. We had a delightful venison pie, and all the food and drink was excellent. The hotel is very picturesque, built in the 19th century and is typically Victorian.
Cairngorm Hotel
During the season, they have a piper who plays out front several times a day and we enjoyed his piping from a distance.
Friendly local Cairngorm Hotel piper
After parting from our friends we went on to Inverness. This is a beautiful little town in the Highlands.
Monument to Cameron Highlanders, Town Square, Inverness
In the pedestrian shopping area we saw a display of live owls that had been rescued by some dedicated wildlife lovers. We had a long chat with the rescuers (they have about 50 owls at any given time) and made a donation to the cause.
Friendly local Scottish Owl
Friendly local Scottish Owlet
Next, we made our way to Fort George to visit the Highlanders Regimental Museum there. Fort George was established in the 18th century, to keep the Highlanders under control. (Fat chance!) It is the most complete 18th century fortress in Scotland, and is the only one still serving as an active duty military garrison. They have a quaint tea room where they serve the best lunches and most delectable desserts!
Entrance to Fort George
The Highlanders Regiment is descended from a combination of three famous Highland regiments: the 79th Queen's Own Highlanders, the Seaforth Highlanders and the Gordon Highlanders. They were amalgamated over the past 45 years as a result of cost cutting measures by the British government. Recently, the Highlanders were themselves incorporated into the Royal Scots Regiment, the only surviving Scottish regiment in the British Army. Thus comes to an end 300 years of tradition.
My husband has a special connection with this museum since he and a friend in Maryland have donated items for display, including a rare regimental sword dating from the Napoleonic wars, and a Cameron belt plate from 1793, the founding year of the Cameron regiment.
We very much enjoyed meeting the curator and his staff, and spending some time examining the collection. I especially appreciated the textiles there with embroidered roses, shamrocks and thistles. My husband presented the museum with a very special item of historical significance that he had been planning to donate for some time: a sporran cantle (the metal top of the purse worn with the kilt) that had been worn at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.
Seamus presents sporran cantle to Kelvin Hunter, curator of the Highlanders Museum
Lisa with new boyfriend, a Cameron Highlander of the Victorian era
(All statues were constructed by Kelvin Hunter, the curator, who is also a talented artist.)
While in the area, we also made a visit to the battlefield of Culloden. This was the site of the last battle of the last Jacobite Rising, on April 16, 1746. Although usually thought of as a war of Scots against English, this was actually a civil war with English and Scots on both sides, led by Prince Charles Edward Stuart, the Stuart heir to the throne of Britain and Ireland. He is better known today as Bonnie Prince Charlie. There have been more songs and stories written about him and his exploits than any other figure in history, especially his dramatic elusion of English pursuit after the failure of the Rising, when he spent several months hiding in various locations in the Highlands, aided by the loyal clans, and even by those who had not actively joined in the Rising. One of these people was Flora MacDonald, a young lady of the Isle of Skye, who took Charles, disguised as her Irish maid, Betty Burke, "over the sea to Skye" when he was being pursued. She became quite famous for her daring exploit, and though imprisoned for a time, was later pardoned and led a rather interesting life. In later years, a song was written to commemorate her feat, called The Skye Boat Song. (For some inexplicable reason, it is often heard in the US on piped music systems at Christmas time.)
Culloden, looking toward the Jacobite position
The battle was short, but bloody. The English had superior numbers of better-armed troops, and a large number of cannons which inflicted many casualties on the Jacobites before the battle was even joined. Many of the wounded were left to lie in the field for several days, then murdered where they lay by the British troops. The clansmen were buried where they fell, in mass graves, the mounds of which can still be seen, marked in later times with stones bearing the names of the clans buried there.
Clan Cameron Grave
There is also a large cairn erected in the 19th century to commemorate the battle. Walking over the field was a moving experience.
Culloden Cairn
Culloden Cairn Plaque
The Visitor Center has a large walk-through display of the battle in sketches with interesting exhibits of period weapons, equipment, letters, and other memorabilia. We were given a "virtual tour" of the new Visitor Center by Hugh Allison, a docent and author of several books, including a new one on Culloden. It will have a more realistic representation of the battle, computer-generated graphics, interactive exhibits, and much more. I'm sure the new center will be awesome.
We traveled by train from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh through some rather rugged and wild scenery. The wildlife was impressive, especially the deer, and the highland cattle are quite spectacular in appearance. From the Kyle we took a bus over to the Isle of Skye, which is now connected to the mainland by a bridge. After settling in our B & B, we explored the town square in Portree. Thanks to a recommendation from our host at the B & B, we had dinner in The Isles, a pub and restaurant in the square where I was served the best plate of scallops I have ever had in my life.
We spent a day at Dunvegan Castle, home of the MacLeod family for about 800 years (no exaggeration!). The Chief and his family have lived there for almost the entire time, except for a period when they had been unable to keep up the property due to the ruinous taxes inflicted on them. However, they regained their ancestral home, and have been there ever since.
The late Dame Flora MacLeod, a former chief, kindly opened the castle and the grounds to the public during her tenure, and they have remained open ever since, a great gift to the MacLeods and indeed all who visit each year from around the world. The castle can also be rented for events, and provides a stunning setting for any occasion! Though the revenues from tourism and events amounts to a lot of money, the upkeep is phenomenal, and there is always work to be done.
(It is a sad commentary on Britain that their taxation system has deprived many ancient families of their heritage and homes. Many castles, manors, and "great houses" have been sold or lost, and either gone to ruin or [almost as bad] been "redeveloped" in such a manner as to completely ruin their ambience, character, and historic significance, while their priceless historic artifacts have gone to the highest bidder. To his great credit, Charles, Prince of Wales, recently donated a huge sum of his own money to rescue the furnishings and artifacts of an historic Scottish home from the auctioneer's gavel. The National Trust now has the home and grounds, as well as its furnishings and artifacts, in the public trust.)
Lisa at Dunvegan
Lisa at the sea wall, at rear of Dunvegan
Originally a rather rough and basic fortress, it has been added to and remodeled over the centuries. The castle as it now stands is exquisitely furnished with pieces from many periods of its long history, and holds many display cases that contain artifacts of historical significance, including some Jacobite memorabilia, and a lock of Bonnie Prince Charlie's hair, which was given to Flora MacDonald.
There is also the famous "Bratach Sithe" (Fairy Flag) of the MacLeods, which is made of very ancient silk. In recent times, experts have examined and verified it as being from the Middle East, made between the 4th through 7th century A.D.! For over 800 years, it has been a revered clan relic, and was formerly used as the clan's battle flag.
The famed MacLeod banner, "Am Bratach Sithe" - The Fairy Flag
There are several versions of the legend describing the origin and acquisition of the Fairy Flag, and several versions have a common thread, though they may differ in some aspects. The two main strands are that it was from the Crusades, or the Fairies.
Some say that it is a saintly relic from the Holy Land obtained during the Crusades (though it was made at least 400 years earlier than the First Crusade). Others believe it may be a piece of "Landwaster," the famous Raven banner of the great Norse war king, Harald Hardrada, who was killed at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in northern England while attempting an invasion in 1066 - just a short time before William of Normandy (aka "the Conqueror") would land and beat Harold Godwinson, the Saxon king, who was in his turn killed.
This could well be true, as the MacLeods are descended from Harald Hardrada, and their ancestors likely would have been among those in his army. Harald, before his accession to the throne, had formerly served as a mercenary in the famed Varangian Guard of the Eastern Roman Empire in Constantinople, and could well have obtained the material for the banner (again, possibly a holy relic), during his service there.
In other stories, it is reputed to be a gift from the Daoine Sidhe ("People of the Hollow Hills" or Fairies as we call them nowadays), and that it would bring help to the clan if waved in times of grave danger - but like all gifts from the Fairy folk, it had a condition attached--it could only be used six times. It is said that it has been waved five times already, several times in battle, and once to cure the chief's children when they were gravely ill.
In WW II, a number of MacLeods in the RAF flew into action with a picture of the Fairy Flag on their cockpit dashboard, perhaps in hopes that some of the power of the ancient banner would protect them and bring them victory.
It is now preserved behind glass, because some less scrupulous visitors were in the habit of cutting a piece off to partake of the history - or the magic...?
The castle grounds are beautifully kept, and a walk through the extensive gardens is relaxing and rewarding. The weather was stunning, bright, warm, and beautiful! A perfect day to see this historic and scenic place.
Dunvegan Gardens
Waterfall at Dunvegan
The following day we went to the MacDonald Center Museum and Library at Armadale. There are rhododendrons all over Skye and much of Scotland, and they made a spectacular display throughout our travels. The MacDonald Museum was of special interest, since my husband had supplied them with a rare, antique Donald MacDonald bagpipe chanter (circa 1840). We were privileged to go behind the scenes to see the exhibit they are preparing for the public with the chanter and related articles, including music books and other instruments by the same maker. MacDonald was a pipe-maker, born in Skye, who worked between 1798 and 1840 in Edinburgh. He was considered one of the great pipe-makers, (although some might consider that to be an oxymoron).
MacDonald chanter
Seamus and MacDonald Center Librarian (Donald MacDonald chanter in display case)
The grounds and gardens here are also a delight. Though the castle was completely burned out in 1855 and is now only a shell, the ruins are beautiful in their own way, and there is a newly built annex to the side of the castle on the site of the original home of the MacDonald chiefs. There are also cottages available for rent, including the Flora MacDonald Suite, named for the heroine of the '45.
Lisa at Armadale Castle
While in Portree, we saw the hotel where Michael Davitt, the organizer of the Land League in Ireland, spoke to the crofters of Scotland during their struggle to gain rights to their land.
Michael Davitt plaque
We also saw some young pipers practicing their art in the town square. As usual, I enjoyed them--from a distance--while Seamus practically had his ear glued to the drones.
Young Portree piper
Our first two nights in Skye we spent at a lovely B&B, run, of course, by a man from England, who had fallen in love with Skye, got married in a kilted wedding (!!), and now lives there full time.
Our last night in Skye we spent at an equally lovely B&B with a beautiful view of the harbor and mountains, where our hostess was, for the first time in our travels, an actual Gaelic-speaking Scottish lady! She was much amazed when Seamus addressed her in Scots Gaelic, and they carried on quite a conversation. I still don't know what they were talking about! For all I know, they could have been plotting to run off together. If so, it didn't go as planned because he left with me the next day for Fort William. The views were beautiful!
Views from our second night B&B window
After three lovely days on Skye, we headed back to the mainland and down to Fort William. We stayed at a lovely B & B at Spean Bridge, the Coire Glas Guest House, run, of course, by a couple from England. It is 10 miles north of Fort William. We particularly enjoyed the expertly prepared breakfasts; sitting on the front terrace with a glass of wine and a view of Ben Nevis was divine.
We were close to the Clan Cameron Museum, which is located in the old post office cottage, and Achnacarry, the home of Donald Cameron of Lochiel, the Chief of Clan Cameron, which my husband's family descends from. Needless to say, we made a visit, which involved a long drive through beautiful wooded glades and into the countryside. (Unfortunately, no bus was running on that route at that time of year, so we had to take a taxi, which is rather expensive over there).
Clan Cameron Museum
After viewing the Cameron artifacts and chatting with the museum personnel, we walked a short distance down the road to view the chief's house. It is all set in a beautiful area, far from the beaten path.
Grounds around Achnacarry
There are annual gatherings of the Camerons at the Museum, and the chief's house is usually open to the public once a year and on special occasions. The house itself is very historic, as Lochiel and his Camerons played an important part in the 1745 Rising, as indeed they had in earlier risings and in Scottish history. They have many tales of former chiefs and clansmen, which you can see on the Clan Cameron website.
There is a line of beautiful old trees along the drive to the house, which were hastily put in by Lochiel when he left to join Prince Charles in the '45. He had been planting them when the summons came, and probably hoped that he would return after the Rising to finish the job. Unfortunately, all his hopes and those of many others ended at Culloden. Though wounded in the battle, he was carried from the field by his clansmen and escaped to France, where, through the influence of King James VIII, he was given a commission in the French Army. He only lived a few years afterward, but to his dying day he did all in his power to try to persuade Charles and the French to return to Scotland where he still believed the Rising could be won. He was known as the "Gentle Lochiel" because, although he was a formidable warrior and first into the fray, he was always merciful in victory. His personal intervention saved Glasgow from being burned during the Rising, in recognition of which he and his descendants, to this day, are recognized by the city when they pay a formal visit. The bells of the city are rung, and the Lord Mayor and city officials greet them personally. His grave was lost to history until recently, when through the efforts of an historian, it is believed to have been located.
The next day we made a visit to the West Highland Museum at Fort William. The town of Fort William is beautifully kept, with ubiquitous litter bins, used by one and all. The main shopping area is for pedestrians only, and there are loads of shops of interest to the tourists, including bakeries and butcher shops that display the medals they have won for excellence in various food competitions.
The West Highland Museum is in Cameron Square and is considered to have one of the most significant collections of Jacobite memorabilia. They have an incredible collection of Jacobite glassware, and of course the expected swords and dirks. One of the most interesting pieces was the Secret Portrait. I had heard about this many times over the years since we have a deep interest in the history of the Stuarts, and we have sung a lot of Jacobite songs, etc. The portrait of Prince Charles Edward Stuart is only seen when reflected in the upright cylinder of the anamorphic painting (think "fun house mirror"). The portrait is unrecognizable when looked at directly, but the "distorted" painting shows a perfect likeness of Bonnie Prince Charlie when reflected in this manner. Thus, his followers could drink a toast to the Prince without being discovered.
Portrait of Young Prince Charles, perhaps about 15 yrs. old
Finally, we returned to Prestwick the night before our flight home. We stayed in a B & B run by a lady who makes frequent visits to Malawi. Her home is full of African artifacts and other treasures, and was like a museum itself. She also had dozens (or was it hundreds?) of her intricate needlework creations framed and hanging on the walls. It is a short walk to the water from her home, and those of you who live on the Oregon coast should be advised that if you're looking for agates and very smooth quartz, this is the place to be. You can scoop them up by the handful.
Within a block of her house was a well dating to the time of Robert the Bruce, the Scottish warrior king who freed Scotland from English dominion with his stunning victory at the battle of Bannockburn in 1314. It is reputed to have been used by him. According to the sign, "It is known to have been in existence since the 13th century, and served the needs of the community attached to the Spittal and Lazar House nearby and adjacent to the church of St. Ninian. King Robert the 1st of Scotland (the Bruce) benefited from the waters of the well and generously endowed the Lazar House."
Spittal is a word that is commonly encountered in Ireland and Scotland, and is an old word that originally meant a refuge, from the time when wolves roamed the Highlands. However, in this case it probably derives from the old Low German word spittal, in turn derived from a generic Romance word for "hospital" which was later applied to "a hospital (specifically) for lepers." The term "lazar house" also meant a hospital for lepers. Since Bruce had contracted leprosy and eventually died of it, it would be more than likely that he would have visited this place to seek healing from the waters.
Bruce believed that the leprosy (now known as Hansen's disease) was visited upon him by God in retribution for his murder of John "the Red" Comyn, a rival for the throne, before the high altar of Greyfriars Church in Dumfries, while they were meeting to discuss their differences. As churches were regarded as sanctuaries, this was considered among the most sacrilegious of crimes.
Bruce intended to go on a crusade to assuage his sin, but he died before he was able to accomplish this. His body lies buried in Dunfermline Abbey. However, at his direction, his heart was taken on Crusade by his faithful follower, Sir James Douglas. They only got as far as the then Moorish province of Granada.
At the Battle of Teba, Douglas was ambushed by a numerially superior force. Douglas is said to have thrown the casket containing Bruce's heart ahead of him into the center of the enemy formation, and shouted "Onward, braveheart, Douglas shall follow thee or die." According to the Fordun Annals, the heart was later recovered by Sir William Keith and taken back to Scotland to be buried at Melrose Abbey, in Roxburghshire.
Bruce's Well
The next day, we flew from Prestwick to Carrickfinn, our local airport in Donegal, back to some very nice summer weather.
More to come! Meantime,
